21 Classic Cotton Fabrics: Timeless Traditional Textiles

Classic cotton fabrics are timeless materials made from pure (100%) cotton yarns and fall under organic fabrics. Cotton textiles represent timelessness as it can be traced back to thousands of years before Christ.

According to historical facts, the oldest cotton cloth is a 6,200-year-old indigo-blue fabric from Huaca, Peru.  This makes it one of the oldest-known cotton cloths in the world and the oldest known textile decorated with indigo blue.

classic cotton fabric gingham
Gingham Fabric – Traditional cotton textile with 17th century origins, woven with check and plaid patterns.

Domesticated Species of the Cotton Plant

There are fifty different species of cotton plants, but today, only four have been domesticated. The earliest known species is the Gossypium barbadense. Gossypium barbadense is now domesticated and still grown today. It is known as Egyptian cotton.

The domesticated species of cotton are:

  1. Egyptian cotton (Gossypium barbadense).
  2. Upland cotton (Gossypium hirsutum).
  3. Tree cotton (Gossypium arboretum).
  4. Levant cotton (Gossypium herbaceum).

Traditional Cotton Cloths

Traditionally, classic cotton fabrics were mainly used by the less affluent. At the time, the cloths were thick, rough, and textured but durable and hardwearing. The reason is that many were woven on modest handlooms; with the advent of industrialization, cotton fabrics have become softer, smoother, sheerer, and more luxurious. And they are beautiful enough for fashionable clothing, interior design, and home styling.

21 Traditional Cotton Cloths

The 21 traditional cotton materials listed include some produced thousands of years ago. A few are no more, but others have been refined through modern weaving processes and are still popular today.

  1. Muslin. A prized and popular item among wealthy Roman ladies. The muslin cloth possesses a texture ranging from delicate and soft to coarse and textured.
  2. Cheesecloth. Gauze-like and loosely woven, this cotton fabric is used for cheesemaking and the printing process.
  3. Buckram. A stiff cotton fabric used for hatmaking, bookbinding, and clothing stiffening.
  4. Dimity. This timeless traditional fabric is sheer and lightweight and usually produced in white. The weaving of the dimity material evolved in the 1700s. It is commonly used for window treatments and light upholstery.
  5. Swiss dot. A lightweight sheer cotton material with embellishments of small round dots in its weave.
  6. Calico. The material is made from unbleached and semi-processed cotton yarn.
  7. Batiste. This classic cotton fabric is used for handkerchiefs, lingerie, and high-quality garment lining.
  8. Duck cotton. – Also called duck canvas or duck cloth. It is a plain weave and heavy fabric used for sandbags, canvases, footwear, and tents.
  9. Cotton gabardine. Traditionally, gabardine was made from tightly woven cotton fibres. It is a strong and durable fabric invented in the late 1800s by Thomas Burberry.
  10. Gingham. In the 17th century, gingham was first produced as a striped fabric, but by the mid-18th century, it started to be woven with check or plaid patterns in white and blue colours.
  11. Long cloth. As its name implies, the long tooth is a cloth that comes in comparatively long pieces. It was used primarily for shirts and underclothing.
  12. Madras. This material is a plaid or check-patterned lightweight cotton fabric originating from India. Traditionally hand-woven, its patterns are applied with vegetable dyes that bleed through the cloth, resulting in soft, muted colours. It is commonly used to make women’s clothing and men’s shirts. 
  13. Chintz. This material is made from plain cotton fabric that ranges in weight from mild to heavy. It is often printed with large, bold, multicoloured flowers and has a glazed finish (some come unglazed). Chintz textiles are excellent for making soft furnishings, upholstered pieces, and drapery.
  14. Egyptian cotton. Finer, softer, and longer-lasting than regular cotton fabrics. It is also more expensive than most cotton cloths because its finer yarns mean a higher thread count. The Egyptian cotton weave is significantly sturdier.
  15. Percale. The tight cotton weave typical of Percale materials makes it a desirable material for bed linen. It is an elegant cotton fabric that never loses its smoothness and requires no ironing.
  16. Khadi. Hand-spun and hand-woven cotton cloth that originates from Asia.
  17. Monks cloth. A traditional cloth made from pure 100% cotton yarn and woven into a loose weave fabric. The fabric was traditionally used for the monks habits. Now, it is mainly used for crafts, throw pillows cases, and window treatments.
  18. Seersucker. This is a lightweight fabric that originated in India. It is made from pure cotton fibres that first appeared in the 1600s through the East India Company. It features a crinkled look because it gives a puckered appearance. It is a non-iron fabric used for clothing and fashion accessories. Today, it is produced by a limited number of manufacturers.
  19. Canvas. Strong, rugged, and durable, canvas is a cloth woven with coarse cotton yarn. It is used for cushions, slipcovers, seats, footwear, and drop cloths.
  20. Chenille. A heavyweight fuzzy form of cotton fabric named after the French word for caterpillar. It is used for upholstery and is ideal for robes and bedcovers.
  21. Voile. Voile is a sheer fabric that’s traditionally made from 100% cotton.  It is soft to the touch and lightweight and is typically used in soft furnishing and dressmaking.

Cotton materials like Swiss dot, duck cotton, voile, chintz, and cotton gabardine are still popular; other textiles like long cloth, muslin, Dimity, and Khadi are rare and no longer popularly sought.

Effect of Technology on the Classic Cotton Fabrics

Today, some of these fabrics no longer exist, and others are becoming less popular because of new-age substitutes due to the influence of technology. Because of this effect on the textile industry, there is now a wide variety of fabric types, grades, and designs. And now, natural fibre blends have been developed to satisfy consumer needs, tastes, and affordability.

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