The production of classic fabrics of the 1800s was influenced by the Industrial Revolution which played a major role in the transformation of the manufacture and consumption of textile materials in the 19th century. Before the introduction of machinery, all fabrics were woven with different types of handlooms.
Handlooms were constructed from wood and started off as rudimentary frames used at home by families but soon, the more sophisticated types emerged. These types were able to construct multi-colour and multi-pattern fabrics using different styles of the weaving process.
The advent of power looms resulted in quicker and cheaper textiles that were mass-produced for clothing and furnishings purposes. Fabrics became more available to consumers who benefited from a wider variety of materials at lower costs.
Popular Fabrics of the 19th-Century
There was a wide variety of textiles available in the early 19th century and they were all produced from natural fibres. The popular types were made from wool, cotton and flax yarns. At the time, silk was not readily available, and it was more expensive but basically, wool and silk were the choice fabrics of the century. Cotton was used mainly for everyday clothing and for “wash” apparel.
The following list of classic fabrics is some of the most popular textiles of the 1800s. Some of these are still produced today.
- Calico – a cheap cloth made from cotton.
- Cambric – a thin lightweight material made from linen.
- Black wool – also referred to as black fleece and derived from black sheep.
- Duck cotton – a cotton fabric similar to canvas but finer and lightweight.
- Calamanco – is a wool fabric in plain or striped designs that imitates camel’s hair fabric.
- Flannel – is a soft loosely structured textile made from cotton and woollen fibres. This classic fabric has a nappy texture.
- Gauze – this fabric has a very thin construction, is transparent, and is made of cotton, linen, or silk.
- Worsted – made from long-stapled wool with its origins at Worsted, in England. Its yarn is soft and smooth and used both for weaving and knitting.
- Cambleteen – consists of a blend of mixed wool, goat’s hair, and/or cotton.
- Check – is a fabric that consists of square patterns woven in a design resembling a checkerboard.
- Linen – this cloth is made of flax, and sometimes, from hemp fibres.
- Wool – wool production was a front-ranking textile industry in the 19th century, playing a role alongside silk and cotton.
- Chintz – glazed and unglazed cotton cloths with flower and foliage prints. Chintz comes in many different colours.
- Batiste – white semi-sheer material that is similar to fine muslin fabric.
- Muslin – a plain woven fabric made from cotton yarn. Muslin comes in various weights with the top-quality types coming with a smooth and fine feel. Muslin was used to make aprons, sheets, and blouses; woven, printed, or embroidered.
- Flax – is a vegetable fibre used to produce linen. It was used extensively in pre-historic times. And mummies found in Egyptian tombs were carefully wrapped in linen cloth made from flax.
- Tabby silk – a fabric that comes in plain or taffeta weave. It features a wave pattern. ‘Tabby’ originally referred to a kind of silk taffeta with an irregular wavy finish.
- Lawn – is a lightweight, sheer, linen or cotton fabric with a plain weave. Lawn fabric is finer than cambric and was used for handkerchiefs and women’s clothing.
- Lutestring – is a plain stout silk fabric popularly used to make women’s gowns. It has a light, flowing quality and yet the silk was sturdy enough to resemble taffeta’s quality.
- Dimity – is a cotton material with raised-up stripes or cords. It is lightweight and sheer and comes in a variety of patterns. Dimity is commonly used for window treatments and some upholstery.
- Silk – With a marvellous and natural sheen and lustre, silk fibres are undeniably the most beautiful of natural fibres. Silk fabrics were coveted in ancient days and were considered the ‘gold standard’ in the trade by barter business.
Effects of High Technology on the Classic Fabrics
Today, many of these classic fabrics are still around and have stood the test of time. Fabrics like cotton, silk, linen, calico, flannel, chintz, dimity, tabby silk, etc… can still be found in some online fabric stores. However, the effects of modern technology on fibre production introduced alternatives to many fabrics of the past, making them almost endangered ‘species.